Friday, April 4, 2014

How Time Flies!

Because I am a crazy person who is sometimes too interested in the past, today I was looking at my journal from last year, and lo and behold, it turns out that exactly one year ago today was the day I found out I'd been accepted to move to France for this year.

...and now, here I am, one year later, my time in France coming to a close and me without a clue what's next. At least I'm not alone; no one I know around here seems to know where they're going in life. That, as I've said before, is very European. But me, as an American, I do get tired of cyclically wondering what's next come the end of the school year. For most people, spring is a season of rebirth and hope...for me, it's one of things ending, of goodbyes and sadness.

I'm tired of saying goodbye to people, knowing things will never be the same once we leave. I do love a good adventure, but I want a home to come back to at the end of it. And I'm tired of always carrying on alone, fighting my way through the difficulties and hoping some kind soul will lend a hand once in awhile.

But when asked that eternal question: why don't I just go back to the States? ...my answer is firm. I don't want to. Not because I don't love and miss my family (to my family reading this: I promise, I DO), but because it doesn't feel right. Not now. Maybe not ever, I don't know. But for sure, not now.

So what's next? Well, hopefully in the next few days I'll get one of those exciting emails that will tell me my future for the next year. Or one of the interviews I have set up will lead to something. So for now, it's a waiting game. And hopefully, if not this year then soon, it will be the time when I can commit to something that will ensure that the next April, I won't still be playing this immensely stressful game of "What's Next?"

I just have to trust that one day, that time will come. But for now, I'm gearing up for a truckload of goodbyes and sadness. C'est la vie. 

Leaving the port of St. Malo (literally and figuratively, could I BE any cheesier??)

Friday, February 21, 2014

La Bretagne est Belle, Quand Même...

Stereotypical Brittany--Galettes (salty crêpes) made with butter!!

Before moving here, I knew almost literally nothing about Brittany. I knew crêpes were from here, that it rained a lot, that it was Celtic, and that the traditional costume involved women in gigantic hats, but other than that...no, not much. 

So everything I've seen thus far here has been very informative, giving me a picture of "what Brittany is like." And I have to say, it's been a pleasant surprise! I came without any pre-formed notions, and I've discovered quite a few little things that I really like.




I took a daytrip to a nearby-ish town called Dinan the other weekend, and I noticed there quite a few of the things that I have come to find enchanting about Brittany. 




Like I just mentioned, it rains here...a lot. Grey skies make life kind of gloomy. And many houses here are made out of stone, which is practical, but also not the most visually appealing. But those Bretons, looking to inject some joy into life, came up with the idea for SUPER brightly colored windowframes and doors. Why? Why not, I ask! They really pop, and I like it! 




Another part of Breton architecture that fascinates me is the wooden buildings with the different-colored supports (at least, I think they're supports...or just decoration...construction is not my forte!). I've mentioned these before, but my love for them hasn't diminished the longer I've been here...if anything, I've become more and more fond of these gorgeous buildings!




In fact, I've become so enamored of the contrasting wood and bright colors that I half considered calling the number on the sign on the place below to see if I could make it my own! (Kidding, but wouldn't that be awesome??)




Maybe the reason I really love these gorgeous buildings is that they make me feel like I live in the Middle Ages. I mean, I guess for some people that would be a bad thing...but...hello, nerd! 




The thing is, I really like wandering down a nice old tiny cobbled street, past these enormously old buildings and wondering what stories they have to tell. How many life stories were lived out in this one humble structure. I like imagining that if I just closed my eyes for a second, I might open them to find a horse and carriage bustling past a woman washing her family's laundry by hand in her yard. I feel transported to another era entirely, and I love that feeling.



And I also particularly love the attention to details in places like this--even the road signs were cute. Did they have to do that? No, not at all. But did it make the town seem even more charming than it already did? Absolutely. Worth it to me! 

I'm glad I've had the opportunity to get to know Brittany a little, particularly the parts that are a little further from my front doorstep. Hopefully, in the short time that remains to me here, I'll be able to discover even more adorable towns like Dinan! 

Monday, January 27, 2014

Reasons being an American in Europe is hard

This post has been a long time coming, several years in the making in fact. I suppose it's no surprise to anyone that life as an expat can be...challenging, in a word. The things below are some of the most difficult things I've really battled with here in Europe—not small things like there being no peanut butter, but differences in belief systems. This post is a bit of a change from my usual style, a bit more “heavy” as Michael J. Fox might say. But it also feels real, and I think it's a good change to focus sometimes on the more complicated parts of the life I've chosen. And I want to make it clear that I'm not complaining, I'm very aware that this life was my choice, that if I feel it's all too much I should just go home. I'm merely reflecting here on some issues that have come up for me.

And before I get into it, I also want to write a disclaimer: I'm making a lot of generalizations in this post, some of which I know may be offensive to some people. I apologize in advance for saying that “Europeans are like _____” when of course it's not true of everybody. I'm speaking generally from what I've seen in my few years of experience living in Spain and France, and traveling to and having friends from various other countries. But if you're offended, if you think I'm totally off-base, feel free to tell me about it! I don't mind having my ideas challenged, if that helps me grow as a person.

So without further ado, some things I've struggled with while living here in Europe.

The age gap.
By this I mean the discrepancy between how I act, think and feel as a 25-year-old compared with how your average 25-year-old European acts, thinks and feels. Because I've been living (far) away from my parents since I was 18 (that's 7 years, if you were counting), I'm quite independent by now, and used to taking care of myself, to not seeing my family that often, etc. Because university is (ridiculously) expensive in America, I finished as quickly as possible, when I was 22, and never looked back. I have no plans of doing a masters unless it's free or close to it, because I simply don't have $40,000+ in my back pocket. This means I've been working for a living for 2.5 years now, and I've had some time to reflect on my career and life direction. Because nearly all my friends back in the States are starting to have stable jobs, houses, cars, husbands and kids, I feel pressure to have these things too. I think my extended family and friends often wonder why I'm wasting so much time in finding a job, a man, and settling down. However, here, many many 25-year-olds are still in or just finishing university. They probably still live with or near to their parents. They may not really know how to cook, manage their paycheck, or run a household. If they don't know what to do with themselves for work (and many of them don't, having just finished studying), they can always go back and get a masters—it won't cost very much! Because, if at all, they've only just barely started in the working world, their lives are still exciting and unstable. They still want to go travel, see the world, have fun and not worry. I've been there, done that, and I'm ready for something a little more permanent. But when I look for a full-time job, or a proper boyfriend, or a place to live for more than a year at a time, people here wonder what my rush is. I'm “only 25,” after all. “So young,” they tell me. Yes, of course it's young...but I wish people understood that 25 in my culture doesn't mean the same thing it does here. That I have nagging worries about being left behind, about playing Peter Pan while everyone else back home grows up. I feel more mentally in-step with people 3-5 years older than me, but I get irritated with them when they call me a baby and tell me that I'm too young to have really experienced anything in the world. So there's a bit of a disconnect from my peers here.

The insularity. 
So many people in Europe spend their entire lives living within a few hours' radius of where they were born. That's the dream, to never have to be too far away from family. Because of this, their ties with their family and friends tend to be very strong. It's not uncommon, if they do live away from home, to go back often on the weekends. In this way, many young Europeans always have a safety blanket, no matter if they're living on their own or not. They can always go home for the weekend if they feel lonely. They always have friends just a few hours away to visit, people they've probably known their whole lives. Me, I barely talk with my friends at home because of the time difference, and I haven't lived in the same state as most of them for 7 years. I no longer feel close enough with most of them to call them up out of the blue when I feel lonely. And that happens a lot here (feeling lonely), where these friend groups that have been strengthening since infancy are more than a little difficult to break into.

The work ethic. 
Because the work ethic is so strong in the States, people often hear about what I do for work here, see the trips I take, and think I'm on some kind of extended vacation. I have recurring guilt about not having a “real” job, about working as much as I “should” be, about not earning enough money to put some away for a rainy day. I feel bad for adopting the ethic of working to live instead of vice versa, even though I truly believe it's a better way to live life. The cultural assumptions I grew up with tell me differently, and it often takes a conscious effort to relax instead of worrying about working harder, about being more efficient. But then, if relaxing takes effort, is it really relaxation? I don't know the answer to this question, and I feel a sense of conflict about it.

The stereotypes.
“What sorts of things do we eat in America?” I asked in all my first classes here. Without fault, their answers were “Hamburgers!” and “McDo!” “What do Americans like?” “Guns!” “What do we watch on TV?” “THE SIMPSONS!!!!!” Yes, it's nice that the kids here can relate to my culture. I'm glad that they have a reason to be interested in learning English. But at the same time, unlike an assistant teacher from a less-well-known country, there's less novelty in our culture and traditions. They already know all about Santa Claus and the Super Bowl just from the movies. Instead of teaching new, exciting things about my culture, I spend most of my time just trying to break stereotypes. And even when I do succeed in teaching something new about America, I feel guilt that I'm perpetuating its cultural dominance.

The English. 
The language, not the people. Because of said American cultural takeover, almost everyone in Europe speaks at least a little English, and many of them are eager to practice. This is wonderful when I'm looking for ways to earn money, or am in desperate need of friends. But when I want to really dig in and learn the language of the country I live in? Sometimes it's more difficult because I'm an English speaker. People will switch to English on me when they hear my awkward French, thinking that they're helping. But when that happens all the time, I never get a chance to get any better!

The assumptions about the crisis. 
So many people here here think that America is still some kind of “promised land,” where the job market is great and it's no problem to get hired straight out of university. I don't mean to underestimate the impact of the crisis in Europe, but it's had a definite affect in America too. No, unemployment for under-30s is no whopping 50% like in Spain. But in Spain, many under-30s are still in university and living with their parents, and they still have guaranteed health insurance. They can still draw unemployment from the government for more than a few months. In America, it's very rare to continue studying and living with your parents after the age of about 22—that's just not seen as “acceptable” in American culture. And good jobs are not just coming out of the woodwork, either. Many young people, if they are employed, work long hours without health insurance, with two weeks or less a year of vacation time, at a job that pays so little they can't afford to buy healthy food or live a good lifestyle. But then when this overwork makes them sick for too many days a year, their employer most likely can fire them without recourse. What I'm saying is, America is suffering too, and even if I do go back, I can't just expect to have a good job handed to me. America is no promised land of jobs, SUVs and flat-screen TVs. At least, not for many.

The visas.
This one sounds super obvious, but most Europeans don't realize just how hard it is to get a work visa here, as a non-EU citizen. Every time I worry out loud about trying to find a permanent job in order to stay, people tell me to just go out and look, that lots of places want native English teachers. Yes, they do, but they don't want them unless they already have work papers. And those are almost impossible to get, because a company wishing to sponsor a person for them needs to prove that said potential employee is so valuable to the company that no person of better quality can be found in the ENTIRE EU. Since that includes Great Britain, I'm more or less S-O-L as an English teacher, unless I wish to continue being an assistant forever. People from here don't understand this, and it gets frustrating having to constantly explain it.

The distance. 
Duh, again. But I don't think many Europeans think much about just how big the distance is between my home and where I live currently. They think they understand homesickness and culture shock because they did an Erasmus year away in another country. I'm not saying that anything they felt wasn't legitimate, but it's just not the same as being from almost 8,000 kilometers away. I can't fly home for the weekend when I really miss it; there's no Ryanair to Chicago. I can't call my family whenever I feel homesick, because half of the time I'm awake they're asleep and vice versa. I can't have people just send me care packages when I really miss or need certain items from home, because it costs more than $60 to send a tiny box. I can't even afford to send lots of postcards home, because overseas postage is so expensive!

As with all of these things, I'm not really complaining, I'm just saying...I wish people realized a little more what life is like right now for me!!

The need to share all this is (probably) brought on by recent personal difficulties and a feeling of homesickness; I miss my family, and life is difficult here sometimes. No matter how comfortable I feel in Europe, these are some of the things that will always remind me that I'm “from away” (as they say in Maine). I'm not European, and I never will be. Vestiges of my Americanness will always clash slightly with the way of life here, and I will always have to accept that. But some pills are more difficult to swallow than others.


Am I alone in feeling like a stranger in a strange land? Or do we all feel a little lost sometimes?

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

The Best Part of 2013

Many bloggers, at the end of the year, post a recap of all of the fun and exciting things they did that year. And that's pretty cool, I too like to remember all the cool stuff I got up to in a given year, see how it compares to other years of my life.

However, I'm also really REALLY lazy. So instead of summarizing the entirety of the past year, I'm just going to pick out the one biggest accomplishment I've made in the last year.

And that accomplishment is....*drumroll*

....

....

....

That in 2013, I completed my goal of traveling to 25 countries before the age of 25!




In June, while I was traveling with my parents, our train was stopped at a border crossing and our passports were stamped as we entered Croatia, and I was proud to be able to say that I'd finally done what I set out to do years ago--visit 25 different countries before I was 25 years old (and even with a bit of time to spare)! 

Where did this goal come from, you might ask....well, it started on another train journey, back in summer 2009. I was backpacking with my Eurail pass across Europe. This particular day found me going from Nice to Paris, all on my own. I'd been traveling using trains in Europe for a few months by this point, but this was the first time I'd commenced a day's travels in France. Something you should know, if you ever happen to be traveling by train in France, is that you MUST stamp your ticket in the little yellow machines near the tracks before you board, or else the ticket inspector on the train will make you pay a hefty fine.

But I, innocent little study abroad student that I was, had no idea of this rule. It didn't exist in Spain or anywhere else that I'd traveled. So of course, when the ticket inspector started coming around, and the cute little old man next to me asked, "Is your ticket stamped?" I must have turned white as a sheet. He quickly gave me some advice, to pretend like I didn't speak French and had no idea what was going on, and maybe the inspector wouldn't be quite so harsh on me. But then, because I have incredible luck, the man across the aisle from me hadn't stamped his ticket either. But he was French, and because he fought back, he ended up getting kicked off the train. 

When the ticket inspector returned from dealing with that mess, my savior of a little old man told me to put my ticket away and pretend like we'd already had ours checked, and to my amazement, it worked! The inspector forgot about us and moved on to the next group of seats, and I sighed the hugest sigh of relief. 

So then it was only natural that the cute old man and I got to chatting about ourselves and our lives, and as the lavender-filled fields of Provence whizzed past the window, I learned that he was French, but had lived in Africa and England, and was currently a professor in Montréal. That in itself was impressive enough, but the one thing that really inspired me was when he told me he'd been to 83 countries in his lifetime. 83! At the time, having traveled to less than 10 (including the USA and Canada), that number was almost unimaginable to me. What things this man must have seen!

As the man told me about his various adventures in these many different countries, I made a promise to myself, that one day I'd be able to pass on amazing stories to some young person that I met on a train. That I'd be able to amaze them with the crazy places I'd traveled to. I told myself, I too want to travel to 83 countries in my lifetime. 

And as I thought more about it in the months that followed, I realized that it's possible that I may not even make it to the age of 83, and even at the rate of one country per year, I was woefully behind. So I told myself then, by the time I'm 25, I'll have at least caught up to one country per year lived, and then see if I can get beyond that.

And now, here I am! I did it! There's still a long way to go before I get to 83, but I feel much more confident now that I'm capable of making it there.

2013 may have been my most travel-filled year yet, or at least, the one with the most crazy weekend adventures to faraway destinations! However, although my goal of making it to 83 countries before I die hasn't changed, I think that now that I've made it to 28 countries (yes, you read that right...between June and December I went to 3 more new countries, because I'm a traveling fool) I don't have to stress about being able to make it to 2 more in the next 5 years. I'm pretty sure I'll get to more than just that amount! So although I hope 2014 still contains loads of travel adventures, my goal for this time next year is to feel a little more settled, to find a place and make it home for awhile. And now that it's out there for the whole internet to see, I have to actually do it...right?

Feliz 2014 to all, make the most of it! 

Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Boas Festas!



As you may have already read in some of my earlier posts, for the first time ever this year I'm not going home for Christmas. At least, not in the traditional sense. If you consider that we all have multiple homes, home is where the heart is, etc., then sure. I came home to Vigo this year instead of to America. And honestly, though of course I'm missing my family, I'm pretty thrilled about it.

It's probably been pretty obvious to most people that, although France is cool so far, a lot of the time my heart has been aching for Spain. For Galicia. For Vigo. So coming back here, seeing my friends who are more like family, speaking a language I dominate fairly well, eating foodstuffs I'd been craving for months, really feels wonderful. In a sense, it does feel like a homecoming.

So although I know my family back in the States is missing me (and I them), and even though that family is about to get just a little bit bigger (bienvenido a sobrino #7!), I'm not tragically crying my eyes out because I can't be there. Especially because I'm obviously very familiar with American Christmas traditions; cookies and eggnog and Santa Claus, etc. However, this year I finally get to learn about Spanish Christmas, eat shrimp and turrón and talk about the Reyes Magos (3 Wise Men)...who actually are coming on the same day I leave back to France, but I'm going to talk about them anyway, because I'm curious.

So I'm excited to learn, to try new things, and to be in a place I feel like I belong, even if it isn't where I originally came from.

Boas festas to you and yours,

with love from Alisabroad

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Un Week-End à Rennes

Sometimes a weekend getaway feels so good, doesn't it? So far in France I haven't been traveling that much, mostly just enjoying really getting to know my city. However, last weekend the time was right to get out and take a little trip--45 minutes down the road.

I was finally able to make it down to Rennes this past weekend, and I have to tell you all--I fell in love. I think I'd really missed being in a bigger city. I mean, my small city is great, but I actually like hustle and bustle and markets and buildings and buses. My poor parents, their farm-raised minds are constantly asking each other, "Where did we go wrong??"

But I digress. Rennes is a lovely size for a city, not too small, not too big, juuuuust right. I really liked wandering around and seeing the churches and quaint old buildings and even a moat and drawbridge.




There are also government buildings, since Rennes is the capital of Brittany. These were done in a more traditionally (what I think of as) "old French" style. That is to say, think of a typical building in Paris and you've got the right idea. 




But what I found cool about Rennes was that there were these stodgy government buildings on one block, and when I turned the corner, I came upon buildings that looked like something out of a fairy tale. What a cool style! I loved the brown and white patterned wood; like someone took a bunch of gingerbread houses and stretched them really tall. And of course they weren't at all level--totally added to the charm! 




And of course, being American, I can't fail to mention how much I love European Christmas markets and how superior I find them to being in your average United States mall any time after Thanksgiving. Christmas lights, little decorated huts, hot wine and comfort food? Sign me up! 

Rennes' Christmas market did not disappoint, and I was pleased to find that the potato "soup" concoction I had reminded me a lot of something my mom usually makes in the wintertime. It was like getting a little motherly love in a foreign land, which, trust me, will always be well-received when I'm far from home at Christmastime. 




So, Rennes, cheers to a lovely weekend getaway, and I hope we can get together again soon! I've been told you may have even more delights to share with me the next time I visit. 

Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Thanksgiving by the Numbers

2009
2011
2012
2013
        

















Number of years since I've had a Thanksgiving with my family: 7

 Number of memories I have of said last familial Thanksgiving: 0

Number of Thanksgivings I've had in the States total (both with family and not): 20

Number of photos of American Thanksgivings that I have: 0


Number of Thanksgivings I've celebrated in Europe: 4

Number of photos of said European Thanksgivings: hundreds


Number of kilos of turkey bought this year: 4.7 (that's 10.3 pounds)

Number of Euros spent on Fernando the French turkey: €47 (that's ~$64)


Number of guests this year: 8

Number of times I've explained the "pilgrims and Indians" story in the past week: (feels like) hundreds


Number of good memories created at expat Thanksgivings: uncountable

Number of leftovers in the fridge: (finally) dwindling


Hope you all had a Happy Turkey Day!